All about plant nutrients

There are 13 mineral nutrients needed for plants to grow. The mineral nutrients are divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients. You also sometimes see these nutrients divided as primary and secondary nutrients.

Macronutrients are so named because plants use quite a lot of them. The macronutrients are: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). Most of these nutrients must usually be added to the aquarium water because plants use so much of them for growth. Some (like magnesium, sulfur and calcium) are usually present in large amounts in hard water. If you live in a soft water area, you may need to add magnesium, sulfur and calcium to increase the hardness levels of the water and provide these essential nutrients to the plants.

Micronutrients are so named because, while necessary for growth, plants usually require only small amounts of them. The micronutrients are: boron (B), copper (Cu), Iron (Fe), chloride (Cl), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn).

There are also three non-mineral nutrients required by plants. These are hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), and carbon (C).

While some of these nutrients may be present in tapwater, not all are present. Indeed, some municipalities reduce or remove important nutrients at the water processing plant. As an example, most municipal water supplies are very deficient in iron. Soft water areas are deficient in calcium, magnesium and sulfur.

Let's briefly discuss these nutrients and their roles in plant growth.

Nitrogen (N): An essential part of all living cells. Must be present for protein synthesis. Nitrogen is an important part of chlorophyll (the green pigment in plants). Nitrogen is usually provided to plants in the form of nitrate, and is usually deficient in tapwater, where it is considered a contaminant. Aquarium plants require about 5-10 ppm nitrate for adequate growth.

Phosphorus (P): helps convert light into sugars that the plants use to feed, and is an essential component of photosynthesis. Excess phosphorus without adequate light levels can contribute to algae growth. Usually present in adequate amounts in tapwater, and by the addition of fish food to the tank.

Potassium (K): plants require huge amounts of potassium for growth. Important in protein synthesis, and helps plants to metabolize iron. Usually deficient in aquariums. Ideal level varies, but is around 5-10 ppm.

Calcium (Ca): a component of cell wall structure. Helps provide strength to the plant, and helps transport other nutrients throughout the plant. Usually present in adequate quantities in most municipal water areas, where it is responsible for "hard" water.

Magnesium (Mg): A component of chlorophyll. Essential to the transport of iron in the plant. May be present in adequate quantities in hard water areas; is probably deficient in softer water areas.

Sulfur (S): Helps in chlorophyll production. Essential for healthy root growth. Stimulates rapid plant growth. Usually deficient in all but the hardest water areas.

Boron (B): Essential for the regulation of other nutrients. Helps the plant produce sugars and starches. Very small amounts required.

Copper (Cu): Essential for the plant to reproduce. Helps stimulate the production of proteins.

Chloride (Cl): Plays a role in plant metabolization of other nutrients. Usually present in chlorinated water (dechlorinators convert Chlorine into a salt of chloride). May be deficient in well water or deionized water.

Iron (Fe): absolutely essential for plant growth, and usually deficient in all municipal water. Must be present for the manufacture of chlorophyll. Without adequate iron (about 0.1 to 0.5 ppm), plants will yellow and fail to produce dark green growth.

Manganese (Mn): important nutrient that helps the plant digest starches and nitrogen, thus helps the plant to use other minerals. A deficiency may actually show up as a deficiency in one of the other nutrients, such as iron (yellowing leaves).

Molybdenum (Mo): assists the plant to metabolize nitrogen. Very tiny amounts required to maintain plant health.

Zinc (Zn): Essential for carbohydrate metabolization. Helps regulate plant growth.

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Is Emersed growth plant or submersed growth plants are best

If we have to choose either one of them, we recommend you to purchase the
plant in emersed form and grow it in the aquarium to develop submersed leaves,
since it is easier for the plant to adapt to the aquarium environment and
therefore the risk of unsuccessful growth is minimized.

In general, submersed leaves can easily get damaged during transportation and
they may often be unable to adapt to the changing environment.  The submersed
leaves grown from a plant in emersed form usually grow vigorously because of
the plant's nature to keep up with the sudden change in environment.
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Furthermore, the chance of having the trouble of a melted bottom stem is lower
in the emersed form of stemmed plants.  When you use imported aquatic plants
sold in emersed form, you have to be careful of residual pesticide.
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How to grow Aquarium Moss

Nutrient-enriched water is suspected if the willow moss turns blackish, or
brown-colored rhizoids are growing.  One cause of these problems is worsened
water contamination due to the deterioration of water quality caused by
overfeeding or insufficient filtration capacity.  Besides this, a rise in water
temperature can also be one of the causes.All aquatic moss which prefers a clean stream.  Its appearance will thus be better if it is grown in
low-temperature water with low nutrient content.  Some measures to improve such
problems are to cut off all the blackened willow moss; change the aquarium water
more frequently to lower the nutrient content of the water, and absorb and get
rid of excessive nutrients by using Activated Carbon with its high absorption capacity as the filter media. Then, wait for new leaves
to develop.

Planted aquarium in chennai

Evolution of planted aquarium in chennai: https://youtu.be/hBLRnvWixIE

Guide for aquarium plant fertilizer

The composition of nutrients is conveniently divided into macro and micro nutrients. Macro nutrients are needed in larger quantities while micro nutrients are sufficient in smaller quantities.

Macro nutrients are calcium, sulfates, phosphates, potassium, chloride, sodium, nitrogen and magnesium. These nutrients are provided by fish and fish food in ample supply. Macro nutrients do not need to be added frequently, if at all, as they will be mostly replenished through water changes.

Essential micro nutrients such as iron, manganese, zinc, boron, copper, cobalt, and molybdenum on the other hand have to be added frequently. The main function of these nutrients is the promotion of growth hormones, photosynthesis, cell development, plant metabolism, and nitrogen assimilation.

The assumption that plants take on most nutrients through their leaves is incorrect. Leafs absorb CO2 and release oxygen. Essential nutrients such as iron, phosphates and nitrogen are readily absorbed by the roots under anoxic conditions found in the substrate.

Plant fertilizers are available as liquid or substrate fertilizers. Both should only contain the micro nutrients. Liquid fertilizers have to be dosed more frequently; substrate fertilizers will last longer. Since there are no obvious differences in efficiency, it is up to the aquarists’ preference which to use.

Next to the micro nutrients, fertilizers contain chelating agents. Chelation is an organic molecule which binds metal ions thus protecting them from early precipitation. The preferred type is abbreviated DTPA because of its stability up to a pH level of 7.5

Unfortunately some fertilizers contain the chelating agent EDTA, which is much cheaper. However chelate EDTA is only stable at a pH up to 6.0 and therefore mostly useless in aquariums.

Another important yet often overlooked aspect in using fertilizers is water conditioners. Many conditioners eliminate heavy metals and since many micro nutrients are metals, plants can be deprived of essential nutrients despite the frequent addition. Fertilizers can be made at home or bought commercially. The home version is known as ‘poor man’s dupla drops’ (PMDD)* relying on the following ingredients

2 Teaspoons potassium sulfate
1 Teaspoon potassium nitrate
2.5 Tablespoon magnesium sulfate
1 Tablespoon chelated trace elements mix

The trace element mix should preferably contain DTPA chelated Fe (7%) B (1.3%) Mn (2%) Mo (0.06% Zn (0.4%) Cu (0.1%)**

Mixed with 1.5 cups of distilled water, the mixture can be stored in the refrigerator.

The required dosage varies depending on plant quantity, growth levels and aquarium size. The correct amount has to be determined by trial and error i.e. starting with a few drops per 40 LITRE while monitoring the iron and nitrate concentration. Iron should be around 0.1 ppm; lower levels also indicate the depletion of the other trace elements. Nitrates should be kept around 5 ppm. Nutrient deficiencies are described in detail in our plant health guide.

Adding fertilizers to promote aquatic plant growth should only be considered in medium to heavily planted aquariums. A few plants should do fine without.

* Ingredients can be obtained at OUR GALLERY
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#The above is the basic fertilisation methods, in future blog we will discuss about Estimated index methods of dosing

Tips to grow Hemianthus calitrichooide 'CUBA' successfully

 It is relatively hard to plant Hemianthus callitrichoides "cuba" and it takes
a longer time for it to take root because of its short roots.  Hemianthus
callitrichoides "cuba", a plant that prefers slightly alkaline, medium-hard water,
 is often found decayed just a few days after it is planted in an aquarium using commercial soil, which makes the aquarium water soft and acidic.  The decay is caused by
such a water quality problem, combined with the damage caused to the plant during
the planting process.  You have to be prepared, to a certain extent, for the loss
of plants after the initial planting work.  To minimize this, you can try the
following planting method designed for reducing the damage caused to the plants
and therefore minimizing the loss of plants.
Firstly, use very fine granules of 0.5 mm to 1 mm granule soil type to hold the thin, short roots of Hemianthus callitrichoides "cuba" more tightly and effectively. 
Secondly, plant Hemianthus callitrichoides "cuba" a little deeper until its leaves can barely be seen.  This planting method can help Hemianthus
callitrichoides "cuba" to take root easily and develop more new leaves.
The critical period for the planting of Hemianthus callitrichoides "cuba" lasts until it takes root.  If the leaves fade or decay, it is advisable to trim off
the affected part of the plant immediately and replant only the healthy, dark-colored part around the terminal bud in the substrate.
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THE GENERAL CARE FOR PLANTED AQUARIUM

Planted aquarium general maintenance
1) Changing approx. 25% of the water every week prevents the accumulation of hazardous substances in the aquarium and limits the algae growth.

2) Waste products in the form of dead plant matter etc. should be removed as soon as possible. Their breakdown uses oxygen and produces nutrients that destroys the balance and promotes algae growth.

3) Check the aquarium equipment regularly in order to make sure that any faults and defects will be rectified and that a stable environment will be maintained.

4) The plant growth is now in full swing and a liquid fertiliser has to be added. Start carefully and with a dose smaller than the recommended. Increase the dose gradually according to the plants' reaction to the fertiliser. A good rule of thumb is that leaves or plants become lighter/transparent when they lack fertiliser.

5) Check for algae on a regular basis. The first sign is unclear water, accumulations on the glass, leaves or decorative materials, or possibly fine threads. If the algae become visible, it will be much more difficult to suppress them! Algae are reduced by changing the water, reducing the amount of fertiliser, introducing more fast-growing plants and algae-eaters.

Time for Introducing fish in planted aquarium

In the case where a new aquarium was set up using brand-new filter media, fish should be added after three to four weeks when the environment within the tank is stabilized and aquatic plants grow almost up to the water's surface.
If an existing filter media already colonized with bacteria is used, it is possible to add fish to the aquarium when ammonia is no longer generated, i.e., about one week after the setup, as long as no algae is observed in the tank.

It is advised to add fish in about two phases, since the balanced self-purification process within the tank can be affected by adding a large
number of fish at the same time.  You might want to add fish as soon as possible once the planted aquarium is done, but it is, for the sake of fish,
better for you to wait until the environment is adequately stabilized (i.e., the condition in which water is clear and sparkling, no algal growth is
observed and aquatic plants grow lush and healthy).
Keep in mind that overpopulation of fish must be avoided to prevent growth of algae.  Adding a relatively small number of fish and feeding easily
digestible and absorbable food  are a key to
maintaining a beautiful planted aquarium.

HOW TO CONTROL COMBAT ALGAE IN PLANTED AQUARIUM

The control and removal of algae is certainly one of the serious issues we have
to deal with when taking care of planted aquariums.  There are many different
types of algae; each type has its own growth pattern and requires a special
attention using the most suitable method of removal.

-Green algae on glass surfaces

They are most commonly seen on the inside walls of aquarium tanks.  Green algae
develop during the initial installation period of an aquarium as well as on the
glass surface and white diffusion filter of Co2 diffusers in a mature aquarium.

Remove the algae growing on aquarium tank walls with a shaving blade, and then
change the aquarium water.  When you use a shaving blade near the substrate area of
the layout, be cautious not to let sand get in between the blade and the glass
surface.  Otherwise the sand scratches the glass surface and leave ugly scratch
marks as you move the blade.
You can remove green algae accumulated on the diffusion filter of a Co2 diffusers
with bleach,

- Beard algae on Anubias

Slow-growing aquatic plants are more vulnerable to the algae problem than the
fast growing kinds.  A group of plants in the Anubias family is a good example.
When diatom algae, which are often seen on Anubias' leaf surfaces during the
initial aquarium installation period, are not removed properly, green algae
may start spreading over the diatom algae.  In case a large amount of beard
algae grows around leaf margins of Anubias, apply dilute hydrogen peroxide solution
using a painting brush.
*Do NOT apply hydrogen peroxide to any other aquatic plants.

- Black beard algae on layout stones and driftwood

Black and tough beard-like algae growing on stones and driftwood can be seen
in the aquarium with a high nitrate level.  Please pay close attention and
take care of them before they become unmanageable.
After scraping off algae with hard tooth brush, release Siamese Flying Fox and
Caridina babuati in the aquarium.  If the condition is critical, remove
water from the aquarium, and cover the affected area of stones / driftwood
with a paper towel, soaked with several drops of hydrogen peroxide , overnight.
Then, fill the aquarium with water in a usual manner.

- Foul smelling blue-green algae covering over the undergrowth

They are considered as a type of Cyanobacteria, easily caused by excess
nutrients in the aquarium water.  They are also found in places, such as
densely-growing undergrowth of aquatic plants, where water flow hardly passes
through.  If you see them in your planted aquarium, you must act quickly as
they spread over so fast!
Suck out blue-green algae using a small hose, and sprinkle Beneficial bacteria over
the area.  Then release some Black Molly in the aquarium.

If you experience an outbreak of algae in your aquarium, you might be
over-feeding your fish.  Uneaten, left over fish food is an excellent food
source for algae growth because it causes excess nutrients in the water.
Watch fish carefully every time you feed them and adjust their servings.
Uneaten food should be removed from the aquarium after each feeding session
to minimize water contamination. 

Algae control using invertebrates
--

We  recommends the use of Caridina babuati (wood shrimp), Otocinclus and
Siamese Flying Fox for algae control.

Tips to purchase aquatic plants

Tips when you purchase aquatic plants

If we have to choose either one of them, we recommend you to purchase the
plant in emersed form and grow it in the aquarium to develop submersed leaves,
since it is easier for the plant to adapt to the aquarium environment and
therefore the risk of unsuccessful growth is minimized.

In general, submersed leaves can easily get damaged during transportation and
they may often be unable to adapt to the changing environment.  The submersed
leaves grown from a plant in emersed form usually grow vigorously because of
the plant's nature to keep up with the sudden change in environment.
Furthermore, the chance of having the trouble of a melted bottom stem is lower
in the emersed form of stemmed plants.  When you use imported aquatic plants
sold in emersed form, you have to be careful of residual pesticide.

WHY WE NEED TO AERATE PLANTED AQUARIUM DURING NIGHT TIME

As you know, aquatic plants perform photosynthesis using light and carbon
dioxide during the day while they respire at night by taking in oxygen and
releasing carbon dioxide. Particularly in a planted aquarium with a lot of stem
plants, the oxygen consumption by the plants during their respiration process
at night is high and this may cause lack of oxygen to the shrimps and fish.
In the case of an excessively low oxygen level, it can be observed that the
shrimps are inactive near the water surface. A lower dissolved oxygen level at
night also leads to an extremely low oxygen level within the filter, which
affects the beneficial bacteria in it. As a result, the balanced environment in
the tank will eventually be lost resulting in slightly cloudy water and
excessive algal growth. To avoid such a situation, it is advisable to perform
aeration during night for the planted aquarium.
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How to grow red stem plants successfully in planted aquarium

Red stem plants are regarded as difficult to grow for the following reasons:
1. Red stem plants prefer mildly-acidic soft water.
2. Requires high light conditions and accordingly, sufficient CO2 injection.
3. Requires continuous iron supplementation to maintain the plant's leaf color.
When we make diy substrate sand  as the main substrate material,
it is difficult to prepare and maintain mildly-acidic soft water.
In addition to this, growing red stem plants was also a tough job because these plants are
demanding in terms of light, CO2 and nutrient conditions. Now, it is no longer
very difficult since the water quality issue can be resolved by the use of commercially available planted aquarium soil  like ADA AQUASOIL, PLATINUM SOIL, with which you can have mildly-acidic aquarium water just by placing
it on the substrate. Among red stem plants, Rotala Macranda is one of the most
difficult species. It is because the plant very often melts and wilts except
the terminal bud portion if the plant is sold in poor condition; and it is
therefore very hard for it to develop submersed leaves adapted to the aquarium
environment. Pogostemon stellatus and Gratiola sp. have vivid red tint when
grown under high light condition and supplemented with IRON or other types of
additives containing rich iron, but they lose their beautiful red color
significantly with low light or insufficient iron supplementation.  If you
wish to maintain the red color of stem plants, you need to add iron
supplements on a continual basis.